There are two approaches to fitting the edges of strip planks together. The bead and cove approach is the one I have been using until now, for all of the reasons outlined here. However, when I began sanding the hull I was dismayed to uncover all kinds of gaps in my stripping.
These gaps were caused by a combination of poorly milled strips and insufficient clamping pressure. (This would have been less of a problem if I had simply stapled the strips to the forms.)
While the bead and cove edges did not cause this problem, it did hide my mistakes from me until it was too late. It was only once the hull was complete and I started sanding into the surface that gaps were revealed as the cove edges of the strips were sanded away. This resulted in a lot of extra filling and sanding.
So, I have elected to complete the deck using the other style of stripping, the rolling bevel. In short, the strips are square instead of interlocking shapes. A hand plane is used to bevel the edge of the new plank to match the exposed edge of the existing plank. The angle of the bevel changes over the length of the strip, hence the name.
On a small canoe like this, it is easy enough to eyeball the strip and test fit it. Plane again and repeat as required. On a larger boat with heavier planks, a bit more planning is required. Check out Tom Daniels blog at the Museum of Yachting to see how he is doing it on Cherokee.
There is lots of information floating around the web about the strengths and weaknesses of both styles, but the biggest advantage that I can see to the rolling bevel is that any gaps are obvious from the moment the strip goes on the hull. No nasty surprises later.
Many people avoid this method of planking, citing a lack of skill or a fear of the amount of work involved. I avoided it at first for both of these reasons, but try it for a week and I am sure you will never go back to bead and cove.
Tip of the Day: If you can purchase pre-milled bead and cove strips (like these western red cedar strips from CLC) then try this approach, but if you have to mill the strips yourself then try the rolling bevel for a while, it’s not nearly as hard as it looks at first.
[...] portion of the hull is fairly vertical along the entire length so no rolling bevel was required, just a simple interlocked ends as per the hull strips I did [...]